Ride Report
Ride to Nuwakot
The City of Nine Hills • Motorcycle Ride Report
Nepal Moto Tours
Ride Report by Prabhash Thakur
Overview
| Field | Details |
|---|---|
| Ride Dates | Weekend — Saturday & Sunday (suggested: any clear weekend) |
| Duration | 2 days / 1 night |
| Start / End Point | Kathmandu (loop) |
| Total Distance | ~160 km (loop via Kakani outbound, Trishuli/Galchi return) |
| Daily Riding Time | 3–4 hours / day |
| Riding Style | Road / Leisure Adventure |
| Difficulty | ★★☆☆☆ — Easy to Moderate |
| Overall Rating | ★★★★★ |
Not every great Nepal ride goes high. Sometimes the most satisfying routes stay close to home — in the middle hills, where the roads wind through pine forest and red-clay terraces, where an ancient palace sits above a river confluence, and where a 45-minute climb from Kathmandu deposits you in a completely different world. The Nuwakot ride is the perfect two-day weekend escape: easy enough for all riders, rich enough in history and scenery to stay with you for weeks.
The Route
At a Glance
| Day | Segment | Distance | Accommodation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Kathmandu → Kakani → Nuwakot Durbar → Bidur / Trishuli | ~80 km | The Famous Farm, Nuwakot |
| Day 2 | Nuwakot Durbar (morning) → Devighat → Galchi → Kathmandu | ~80 km | Kathmandu Suite Homes |
The classic Nuwakot loop uses two different roads for maximum variety: outbound via Kakani for the mountain views and forest riding; return via the Trishuli river valley for the scenery and the easy fast road home. The two routes are roughly equal in distance but completely different in character — the combination makes a far better ride than either direction alone.
Day 1 — Kathmandu to Nuwakot via Kakani (~80 km | 3–4 hrs)
Leave Kathmandu from Balaju, heading north-west on the Trishuli Highway. The city noise fades within 20 minutes as the road begins its climb. This is one of the most underrated sections of riding near Kathmandu — the pine trees close in quickly above Mudkhu, the air cools, and the smog of the valley vanishes in the mirror. The road through the Shivapuri National Park corridor is well-surfaced and entirely free of the lorry traffic that makes the Prithvi Highway so unpleasant. Monkeys sit on the roadside walls. Birdsong is actually audible through the helmet.
Kakani appears at 2,073m after about 23 km: a small village, a few tea houses and a viewpoint that stops most people in their tracks. On a clear morning — and spring mornings here are very often clear — the panorama runs from Dhaulagiri in the far west through Annapurna, Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Langtang, and on to Shishapangma across the Tibet border. This is one of the finest accessible mountain panoramas within an hour of Kathmandu and it costs nothing but the ride up. Sit with tea, let it register, and resist the urge to spend the whole morning photographing it.
From Kakani the road descends toward the Trishuli valley. The descent to Nuwakot is the most technically demanding riding of the tour — narrow lanes, tight bends with limited sightlines, and the occasional oncoming vehicle requiring a full stop on the edge of the road. It is not difficult, but it demands attention. The views opening down the valley below make it one of the most scenic descents near Kathmandu regardless.
Nuwakot Durbar sits on a hilltop above the Trishuli and Tadi river valleys, reached by a short climb from the bazaar below. The seven-storey palace — Saat Tale Durbar — is Nepal's finest example of Shah-era palace architecture outside Kathmandu. Built between 1744 and 1762 by King Prithvi Narayan Shah as his military headquarters for the Nepal unification campaign, the palace is a physical monument to the moment Nepal became Nepal. The intricately carved wooden windows, the layered pagoda-style floors and the commanding hilltop position above two river valleys are extraordinary. The Chinese-led restoration completed in recent years has brought the main tower and surrounding temples back to excellent condition.
Spend the afternoon in Nuwakot: walk the Durbar complex without rushing, wander into the Bhairavi and Taleju temples, sit in the old bazaar lanes below the palace and watch the town operate at its own unhurried pace. Check in at The Famous Farm before dark, eat whatever the kitchen is offering that evening, and sit on the terrace with the Trishuli valley spread out below. This is what the ride is for.
Day 2 — Nuwakot Durbar, Devighat & Return via Trishuli (~80 km | 3–4 hrs)
Early morning at the Durbar before the day-trippers arrive from Kathmandu. The palace complex in the morning light, with mist in the valleys below and the hills still quiet, has a quality that the afternoon crowds never see. Walk up, spend an unhurried hour, and return to the farm for breakfast.
The detour to Devighat is 6 km from Bidur and is not optional. The confluence of the Trishuli and Tadi rivers at Devighat is one of the most historically charged landscapes in Nepal: this is where King Prithvi Narayan Shah died in 1775, where his cremation was performed, and where the Jalpa Devi Temple has stood in his memory ever since. The confluence itself — two rivers of slightly different colours meeting in a wide arc — is genuinely beautiful at any time of day, and the riverside atmosphere is calm and contemplative in a way that busy pilgrimage sites rarely achieve. It is also a very good motorcycle photograph.
The return route from Bidur follows the Trishuli River south to Galchi, where it joins the Prithvi Highway for the run back to Kathmandu. This is the reward leg: a wide, well-surfaced road with the river always in view to the right, flanked by red-clay terraced hillsides and the occasional suspension bridge swaying over the water. The riding is easy, the speed is higher, and the scenery rewards sustained attention. Stop for lunch at one of the Trishuli Bazaar dhabas before Galchi — dal bhat at a riverside canteen with the green water running past is one of Nepal's simple pleasures. Back in Kathmandu by mid-afternoon.
The Bike
| Field | Details |
|---|---|
| Motorcycle | Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 |
| Engine | 450cc |
| Loaded Weight | ~195 kg |
| Tyre Setup | Stock |
| Modifications | Luggage rack |
Bike Performance Notes
The Himalayan 450 is significantly more machine than this route strictly requires — a 150cc would complete the loop without drama. What the Himalayan brings is comfort on the sustained Kakani climb, effortless torque through the winding descent sections, and the confidence of a bike that handles the occasional rough patch on the Nuwakot lanes without complaint. The luggage rack carried overnight bags for two comfortably. No mechanical issues; the bike performed flawlessly throughout.
For riders on smaller machines: the Nuwakot loop is equally rewarding on a 125cc–200cc. The roads are not technical and the distances are modest. This is a ride that is about what you see and where you stop, not what is under you.
Road & Trail Condition
| Section | Surface | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Kathmandu → Kakani (via Balaju, Trishuli Hwy) | Mostly paved; some winding curves | 23 km. The climb from Balaju to Kakani (2,073m) is sustained but smooth. Pine forest sets in quickly above Mulpani. Some tight switchbacks near the top |
| Kakani → Nuwakot Durbar | Paved; narrow & winding | The descent from Kakani toward Trishuli then right to Nuwakot is scenic but tight — narrow lanes, sharp bends, and occasional oncoming vehicles. Take it steady |
| Nuwakot → Bidur / Trishuli Bazaar | Paved | Short 7 km link connecting Nuwakot village to the main Trishuli valley road. Easy riding |
| Devighat (Day 2 detour) | Paved / compact gravel | A 6 km detour from Bidur along the Tadi River to the Trishuli–Tadi confluence. Worth every metre |
| Bidur → Galchi → Prithvi Highway | Paved — excellent | The return leg follows the Trishuli River south; wide, well-surfaced and fast. Beautiful red-clay hill scenery flanking the river. Joins Prithvi Highway at Galchi for Kathmandu |
This is the most road-friendly route in the Nepal Moto Tours portfolio. No mandatory off-road sections, no river crossings, no altitude-related hazards. The one section that merits genuine care is the Kakani descent — narrow, winding, with limited visibility around corners and local vehicles driving with confidence that visitors rarely share. Ride at walking pace through the tightest sections and let the view compensate for the speed lost.
Weather & Condition
| Factor | Details |
|---|---|
| Best Season | Year-round — the low altitude makes Nuwakot rideable in all seasons except peak monsoon |
| Spring (Mar–May) | Ideal: warm, clear skies, mountain views sharp, rhododendrons on the hillsides above Kakani. Recommended window |
| Autumn (Sep–Nov) | Excellent: post-monsoon clarity, terraced fields golden at harvest, cool riding |
| Summer/Monsoon | Possible but caution required: road surfaces can become muddy/slippery, particularly the Kakani descent. Dramatic green but lower visibility |
| Winter (Dec–Feb) | Cold mornings on the Kakani ridge (~8–10°C); gear up for the climb. Clear mountain views frequent on winter mornings |
| Altitude | Kakani: 2,073m | Nuwakot Durbar: ~900m | Bidur / Trishuli: ~500m |
Nuwakot's low altitude (the Durbar sits at ~900m, Bidur at ~500m) makes this the most seasonally flexible destination in the Nepal Moto Tours programme. The Kakani section at 2,073m is the only point where weather matters much — morning clarity is best for the mountain panorama, so an early departure is rewarded. The spring window (March–May) is the authors' recommendation: warm valley air, clean post-winter mountain visibility and the beginning of blossom on the surrounding hillsides.
Permits Required
No permits are required for the Nuwakot loop. The Shivapuri-Nagarjun National Park boundary runs along the Kakani road corridor but the road itself does not require a park entry fee for motorcycle transit. The Nuwakot Durbar charges a small entry fee (NPR 100–200) for the palace complex.
- Motorcycle registration papers should be carried as standard practic
- No ACAP, TIMS or restricted area permits required
Fuel & Logistics
Fuel is not a logistical concern on this route. Petrol stations are available in Kathmandu before departure, in Trishuli Bazaar (Bidur) on Day 1, and at Galchi on the return. A full tank from Kathmandu comfortably covers the entire 160 km loop with reserve. No need to carry spare fuel.
Highlights
Nuwakot punches well above its distance from Kathmandu. The highlights concentrate a remarkable amount of Nepalese history, natural beauty and genuine culture into a two-day loop.
| Stop | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| Kakani Viewpoint (2,073m) | Panoramic views of Langtang, Ganesh Himal, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Shishapangma from a single ridge. Nepal's best accessible mountain panorama within an hour of Kathmandu |
| Shivapuri National Park corridor | The Kakani road passes along the park boundary: dense pine and broadleaf forest, clean air, monkeys, deer, and 318 bird species — an instant escape from Kathmandu's smog |
| Nuwakot Durbar (Saat Tale Durbar) | The iconic seven-storey palace-fortress built by King Prithvi Narayan Shah (1744–1762 AD). Seat of Nepal's unification campaign. Now fully restored with extraordinary carved windows, roof struts and a commanding hilltop position above the Trishuli valley |
| Bhairavi Temple (Nuwakot) | Adjacent to the Durbar; an important ancient temple to Bhairavi with intricately carved woodwork and an atmosphere of quiet devotion |
| Taleju Temple (Nuwakot) | One of several royal-era temples in the Durbar complex; similar in character to the Taleju shrines of Kathmandu and Bhaktapur |
| Nuwakot Bazaar lanes | The old bazaar below the Durbar hill is a living Newari settlement — tightly packed brick houses, narrow lanes, local tea stalls and a slowness that the capital has completely lost |
| Devighat (Trishuli–Tadi confluence) | Sacred river confluence 6 km from Bidur. Where King Prithvi Narayan Shah died in 1775 and was cremated. Jalpa Devi Temple, the confluence itself and the quiet riverbank make this one of the most atmospherically powerful stops in the Nuwakot district |
| Trishuli River valley (return) | The return route along the Trishuli is one of the finest easy river-road rides near Kathmandu: wide green river, red-clay terraced hillsides, suspension bridges and a fast, smooth road back to the Prithvi Highway |
| The Famous Farm | An 18th-century restored farmhouse guesthouse in Nuwakot; beautifully positioned above the Trishuli valley with organic farm-to-table food and the best views in the district for an overnight stay |
- The Kakani mountain panorama at dawn — Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Langtang and the Tibetan peaks all in one sweep, less than an hour from Kathmandu. There is no other viewpoint this accessible and this complete in the valley
- Walking the Durbar complex alone in the early morning before the day-trippers arrive. The carved wooden windows, the quiet temples and the hilltop position make Nuwakot Durbar one of the finest and most undervisited heritage sites in Nepal
- Sitting on The Famous Farm terrace in the evening with a glass of something and the Trishuli valley going gold below. The quality of quietude here is something Kathmandu cannot offer
- Devighat confluence at any time of day — two rivers meeting, prayer flags on the trees, an ancient temple and the knowledge that this is where the man who built Nepal drew his last breath
- The Trishuli river road on the return — fast, smooth, beautiful and completely free of the anxiety that the Kakani descent carries. The ride home from Nuwakot is as good as the ride in
Lowlights & Challenges
- The Kakani descent toward Nuwakot is genuinely narrow. Oncoming traffic (jeeps, buses, motorcycles with full confidence) requires constant attention. Do not let the view distract during the descent sections — stop at a wide point to look, then continue
- The Trishuli valley return road carries some lorry traffic, particularly near Galchi. Standard highway riding awareness required
- Nuwakot is a small, quiet town — there are limited eating options in the evening beyond The Famous Farm. This is not a criticism; it is a warning for riders expecting a restaurant strip. The Famous Farm kitchen is excellent and reservation for dinner is advised
- The Durbar complex entry fee is small but the site can be crowded with domestic day-trippers on weekends, particularly on public holidays. Arrive early or late in the afternoon for the best experience
- The Kakani-to-Nuwakot road is not recommended in heavy rain: the surface becomes slippery and visibility in mountain mist drops quickly. Check the morning forecast before departing
Notable Stops Along the Way
| Stop | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| Kakani Viewpoint (2,073m) | Panoramic views of Langtang, Ganesh Himal, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Shishapangma from a single ridge. Nepal's best accessible mountain panorama within an hour of Kathmandu |
| Shivapuri National Park corridor | The Kakani road passes along the park boundary: dense pine and broadleaf forest, clean air, monkeys, deer, and 318 bird species — an instant escape from Kathmandu's smog |
| Nuwakot Durbar (Saat Tale Durbar) | The iconic seven-storey palace-fortress built by King Prithvi Narayan Shah (1744–1762 AD). Seat of Nepal's unification campaign. Now fully restored with extraordinary carved windows, roof struts and a commanding hilltop position above the Trishuli valley |
| Bhairavi Temple (Nuwakot) | Adjacent to the Durbar; an important ancient temple to Bhairavi with intricately carved woodwork and an atmosphere of quiet devotion |
| Taleju Temple (Nuwakot) | One of several royal-era temples in the Durbar complex; similar in character to the Taleju shrines of Kathmandu and Bhaktapur |
| Nuwakot Bazaar lanes | The old bazaar below the Durbar hill is a living Newari settlement — tightly packed brick houses, narrow lanes, local tea stalls and a slowness that the capital has completely lost |
| Devighat (Trishuli–Tadi confluence) | Sacred river confluence 6 km from Bidur. Where King Prithvi Narayan Shah died in 1775 and was cremated. Jalpa Devi Temple, the confluence itself and the quiet riverbank make this one of the most atmospherically powerful stops in the Nuwakot district |
| Trishuli River valley (return) | The return route along the Trishuli is one of the finest easy river-road rides near Kathmandu: wide green river, red-clay terraced hillsides, suspension bridges and a fast, smooth road back to the Prithvi Highway |
| The Famous Farm | An 18th-century restored farmhouse guesthouse in Nuwakot; beautifully positioned above the Trishuli valley with organic farm-to-table food and the best views in the district for an overnight stay |
Food & Tea Houses
The Nuwakot loop is not a culinary adventure in the way the high-mountain routes are — but what it offers is authenticity. The food stops on this route are embedded in living communities, not positioned for trekker trade. A dal bhat at a Nuwakot bazaar bhatti is cooked by someone who has cooked it every day of their life, for people from the village, not for passing foreigners. That matters.
| Stop | What to Eat / Experience |
|---|---|
| Kakani tea houses | Strong Nepali tea and biscuits at the ridgetop. Several small canteens cater to weekend bikers and day-trippers from Kathmandu. Order tea, sit on the terrace and watch the mountains |
| Nuwakot Bazaar stalls | Dal bhat at a local bhatti (informal tea house) in the old bazaar. The Tamang and Newari cooking here is simple and genuine. Try sel roti (sweet fried bread) if it is being made |
| The Famous Farm | Organic farm-to-table meals using produce from the property: fresh vegetables, local honey, homemade cheese, buffalo curd, and rice from the terraced fields. The evening meal with mountain views is the highlight of the entire tour |
| Devighat tea stalls | Small tea houses at the Jalpa Devi Temple area serve tea, beaten rice (chiura) and fried snacks. The riverside setting makes simple food taste exceptional |
| Trishuli Bazaar dhabas | Lively roadside dhabas along the river road. Good place for lunch on the return day; order dal bhat tarkari or noodle soup and watch the river go by |
| Galchi / Prithvi Hwy stop | The junction where the Trishuli road meets the Prithvi Highway has several standard highway canteens. A final stop before Kathmandu — nothing special, but convenient |
One specific note on The Famous Farm: the property is an authentically restored 18th-century farmhouse whose owner has taken considerable care to source food from the farm itself and the surrounding community. The evening meal there is not just dinner — it is the best available expression of what Nuwakot actually tastes like. If you are spending one night in the district, spend it here.
Accommodation
| Location | Where We Stayed |
|---|---|
| Nuwakot (Night 1) | The Famous Farm, Nuwakot — the best and most atmospheric option in the district |
| Kathmandu (return night) | Kathmandu Suite Homes |
The Famous Farm is the standout accommodation option in Nuwakot district — an 18th-century farmhouse beautifully restored and positioned on the hillside above the Trishuli valley, roughly 10–15 minutes' walk from Nuwakot Durbar. The rooms are comfortable, the organic farm kitchen is genuinely excellent, and the terrace views are the best in the area. Book ahead at weekends: Nuwakot has become a popular Kathmandu weekend escape and The Famous Farm fills quickly on Friday and Saturday nights.
For riders on a budget: there are several basic but clean guesthouses in Bidur/Trishuli Bazaar that serve perfectly well for an overnight stop, with the Durbar accessible as a short morning ride from there.
Tips for Riders Planning This Route
- Leave Kathmandu early on Day 1 — not for road reasons, but for the mountain view at Kakani. The panorama is sharpest before 10am; afternoon haze builds as the day warms
- Take the Kakani descent slowly. The road is narrow and confidence-inspiring it is not. Budget extra time rather than extra speed
- Book The Famous Farm at least a week ahead for weekend stays. It fills consistently and there is no equivalent alternative in Nuwakot village
- Visit Nuwakot Durbar twice: once in the afternoon of Day 1 to orientate yourself, and once in the early morning of Day 2 before the crowds arrive. The early morning version is the better experience
- Do not skip Devighat. It is only 6 km from Bidur and most riders who cut it miss the most historically interesting stop on the route
- The return via Trishuli–Galchi is faster and more enjoyable than returning via Kakani — the river road is a genuinely different experience and the loop format is the right format for this ride
- Carry cash from Kathmandu. ATMs in Bidur exist but are not always reliable; the Kakani tea houses and Nuwakot bazaar stalls are cash-only
- Respect the Durbar complex and adjacent temples: remove riding boots at temple entrances, photograph with awareness of who is in frame, and allow space for local devotees who are there to pray, not to be photographed
- Spring and autumn are both excellent. If choosing between them: spring for the mountain view clarity and autumn for the harvest-season valley colours and post-monsoon freshness
- This is the ideal introductory ride for someone new to Nepal motorcycle touring, or the perfect palate-cleanser between longer expeditions. It rewards the same attention and gives back generously
Emergency & Practical Information
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Mobile Signal | Good throughout the route; NTC and Ncell both work in Nuwakot, Bidur and along the Trishuli valley |
| ATM | Bidur/Trishuli Bazaar has ATMs. Carry some cash for the Kakani stops and Nuwakot old bazaar where card payment is uncommon |
| Medical | Bidur has a district hospital; Kathmandu is 1.5 hours away. This is a low-risk route — standard first-aid kit sufficient |
| Fuel | Kathmandu, Kakani, Trishuli Bazaar (Bidur) and Galchi all have petrol stations. No fuel concerns on this route |
| Road Hazards | The Kakani descent (narrow, blind bends, oncoming vehicles) and the Trishuli valley road (lorry traffic) require focused riding. No technical difficulty but no place for inattention |
Final Verdict
Would we recommend this ride? Unreservedly and particularly to riders who think Nepal is only about altitude.
The Nuwakot loop is the proof that great motorcycle tour in Nepal does not require high passes, off-road carnage or days of physical endurance. It requires a good road, something worth stopping for, and time to actually stop. This tour has all three: the Kakani ridgeline panorama is one of the finest mountain views in Nepal, full stop. Nuwakot Durbar is a world-class heritage site that receives a fraction of the attention it deserves. Devighat is haunting and beautiful in equal measure. The Trishuli river road home is pure riding pleasure.
Kathmandu riders know about this route the way they know about their favourite dal bhat spot — it is not glamorous or far, but it is reliably excellent and they keep going back. For visiting riders, Nuwakot is the answer to the question that sometimes forms after a week in the high mountains: is there a ride near here that is just beautiful and easy? Yes. It is 80 kilometres north-west. It takes two days. Take it.
★★★★★
Ride Report by Prabhash Thakur | Nepal Moto Tours
Tags: Nuwakot • Nuwakot Durbar • Kakani • Trishuli • Devighat • Nepal Weekend Ride • Nepal Heritage Motorcycle Tour